Le Tour du Mont Blanc, Day 11

Tuesday, September 11^th

 

Colleen’s knee was still hurting her – ice and ibuprofen did not improve it enough – so we worked with the front desk manager to book a place for Colleen at L’Auberge de Boerne, the hut we were going to be at tomorrow. She would spend an extra day there recovering as our hut for tonight is inaccessible except by foot. The manager was super grateful when I gave him a tip for all he did to help us. He said he wanted to give me a hug - pronounced with a long u that was very cute. Everyone needs a Hoog! Colleen managed to get to the Auberge less than an hour after we left her in the morning. She asked a woman for a ride down the valley and despite speaking no French and the woman speaking no English – they managed just fine.

Sue, Nancy and I opted for the higher alternative route and were very happy we did. We only saw three other groups the entire day. Our route took us slowly uphill along a “bessis” (canal) that had information signs as well as some games for youth to play as they hiked. One game was turning the valves so different areas received the irrigation water, just like I remember from where we lived in Utah!

Nancy managing the path of the irrigation water on an educational panel

After an hour we reached the steep point of the valley where there was a small store/café and where the route led up/down to the Fenetre d’Arpette (yesterday’s big hike we didn’t do). Our trail was on the other side of the river valley and went steeply up almost 2,000 ft to Dessus, Les Grands, where we discovered a beautiful view, though the hut was closed.

Nancy walking along the rock wall we end up scaling later. Photo by Sue Priest.

Nancy near top, Sue halfway up the path to Dessus, Les Grands

We had a nice long picnic here and I took a scenic photo from the outhouse!

View from the outhouse at Dessus, Les Grands

From this part of the hike we were able to see the route up/down from the Col de Forclaz to the Fenetre d’Arpette and I was super glad we had not attempted that hike! We could also see some melting glaciers in the next valley.

Sue admiring the view from Dessus, Les Grands

After lunch we started the “traverse” portion of the hike which was actually quite demanding. We crossed debris fields and a lot of rocky narrow areas where had to use hand and foot holds to get up and over. It was the most technical hiking we did on the tour.

Me looking back on Col de Forclaz - Photo by Sue Priest

The entire hike was spectacular, with outstanding mountain and glacier views in the beginning and then wonderful views of Trient in the valley and the Col de Forclaz on its bench, and the surrounding mountains on that side. As we approached the Col de Balme, and the border with France again, we met more hikers that had come up from Trient to the Col. We were just as happy the Col de Balme hut had closed and that Richard had booked us into a Gite not too much farther away. The Col de Balme hut looked austere with its gray façade, despite the bright red shutters. It was also cold and windy at the top of the col…

Col de Balme, shuttered for the season - Photo by Sue Priest

We started down towards Les Ecuries de Charamillon that Richard booked for us – it was in the middle of a ski slope and almost under a gondola. There were only seven of us staying at Les Ecuries which was a fantastic treat. We were so sorry Colleen couldn't be there with us to enjoy an uncrowded hut! Sue, Nancy and I each ordered 500 ml of beer to celebrate the completion of a long day on the trail and wrote in our journals while eating leftover potato chips and waiting hungrily for dinner. The showers were wonderful deluges of water – you just pushed the button when you were ready for a fresh deluge of warm water to wash away soap or shampoo. Lovely.

Mindy and Nancy relaxing at Les Ecuries - Photo by Sue Priest.

We got our own room with a privacy pony wall that was open at the top. It was fine as there were only the other two couples and everyone was respectfully quiet. And it was soooo nice to have a bed that wasn’t jammed right next to someone else.

Dinner was a yummy soup and bread, and then we had HUGE pieces of Shepherd’s Pie and chocolate cake for dessert.

Shepherd's Pie for dinner - Photo by Sue Priest.

 Meanwhile, Colleen was watching a fire at one of the ski huts just across the valley from her Auberge! One helicopter was supporting some folks on the ground and they did get it out.

Colleen witnesses a ski hut going down in flames

 Day 11 Summary: Forclaz to Gite d’Alpage de Charamillon Refuge (France); 7.20 mi, 2466’ up/1205’ down, 7 hrs on trail